How is it that even small humble corners of Paris are so alluring? I would move in tomorrow if they'd let me. I can picture a tiny barbecue under the pergola and a funny looking dog at the gate.
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This is my list of Parisian eating places in case you are in Paris or plan to visit soon. Some are expensive, some are affordable, some are 'guingettes' where people sing French songs, or cafés with fabulous terraces, or rooftop bistros with sweeping Paris views. Some are all about the food, others are about the ambiance. Most have both. I've thrown in some smackalicious pastry shops for good measure because you never know when you might find yourself with an emergency need for ‘chouquettes’.
The list is by ‘quartier’ or ‘arrondissments’ of Paris. Here is the google map where I place the restaurants in the correct streets so that you can organize your foodie moments around day trips and points of interest. Reservations to Paris restaurants are a very good idea. I provided the website or a link to a review so that you could find the hours of operation. Keep in mind that many Parisian restaurants are closed on arbitrary days. Some of the best ones close on Saturday AND Sunday which blows the mind when you think about it. In the summer some are closed for an entire month. So call early. If you want to add to the list or disagree with my choice send me an email or comment below because things change and I want to keep this up to date as much as possible. Bon Appétit! First Arrondissement Aux Tonneaux des Halles Tradition, ‘bonne bouffe’ 28, rue Montorgueil 75001 Paris 01 42 33 36 19 Métro Les Halles, Etienne Marcel, Sentier Review of Aux Tonneaux des Halles by David Lebovitz Au Pied de Cochon Beautiful seafood. Beware if you ask for their signature dish you might find yourself contemplating a plate filled with an entire pig’s foot. 6, rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris 01 40 13 77 00 Métro Louvre , Chatelet, Chatelet-Les-Halles Au Pied de Cochon website Verjus Restaurant and wine bar on the hip side 52 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris 01 42 97 54 40 Métro Pyramids, Bourse (reservation possible online through this link. No reservation needed for the wine bar) Chez Denise/ La Tour de Montlhéry Classic Parisien bistro. One of the many Parisian restaurants closed Saturday and Sunday, not to mention an entire month in the summer. 5, Rue Prouvaires Paris 75001 01 42 36 21 82 Métro Les Halles or Châtelet Timeout review for Chez Denise La Pirouette Contemporary décor, innovative and delicious food 5, rue Mondétour 75001 Paris 01 40 26 47 81 Métro Étienne Marcel, Chatelet No website but I found this. Third Arrondissement Robert et Louise Rustic, wood fire oven, warm feel. Don’t let the hideous website scare you away. I promise you divine French food 64, rue Vieille du Temple 75003 Paris 01 42 78 55 89 Métro Rambutteau, Chemin Vert Robert et Louise website Breizh Café If you want to know what the deal is with French Crepe (and the mysterious crêpe au sarasin,) this might be the place to go. 109, rue Vieille du Temple Paris 75003 01 42 72 13 77 Métro Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire Le Bouledogue Brasserie with lively ambiance, good wine and satisfying food 30, rue Rambuteau 75003 Paris Métro Rambuteau Le Bouledogue website Fourth Arrondissement Jaja Tucked away, contemporary bistro with pleasant food at reasonable price. 3 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie 75004 Paris 01 42 74 71 52 Métro Hotel de Ville, Saint Paul Jaja website Le Gaigne Oh so good. But not cheap for a restaurant with little frou frou. (They recently moved to this new address and I haven’t been.) 2 rue de Vienne 75008 PARIS 01 45 22 23 62 Métro saint Augustin Le Gaigne website Angélina An institution for breakfast, tea and lunch since 1903. I would recommend for a hot chocolate and pastries rather than lunch 226 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris 01 42 60 82 00 Métro Tuileries Angélina website Patisserie pain de sucre Trendy twist on the traditional French pastry shop 14 rue de Rambuteau 75004 Paris Métro Rambuteau 01 45 74 68 92 Patisserie Pain de sucre website Le Petit Fer à Cheval 30 rue Vieille du Temple 75004 Paris 01 42 72 47 47 Métro Hôtel de Ville, Saint-Paul, Pont Marie Petit Fer a Cheval website Ma Bourgogne Bistro and wine bar. Right under the Place des Vosges arcades 19, place des Vosges Paris 75004 01 42 78 44 64 Métro Bastille, Chemin Vert Ma Bourgogne website Le Trumilou Traditional French cuisine (Auvergne-centric if I remember correctly) 84, quai de l’Hôtel de Ville Paris 75004 01 42 77 63 98 Métro Hôtel de Ville, Pont Marie ulgy website, jeez you can’t unsee this. Fifth Arrondissement l'Estrapade I had a memorable meal there once, but is it still as good today? The setting is very Parisian so you can’t go wrong with that. 15, rue de l'Estrapade 75005 Paris 01 43 25 72 58 Métro Place Monge No restaurant website but I found this Sixth Arrondissement L’Heure Gourmande Romantic terrace for awesome hot chocolate and light meal. 22 passage Dauphine – Paris 75006 Tél : 01 46 34 00 40 Métro Saint Germain des Pres, Saint Michel No website but here is some info and images Chez Dumonet/Josephine Art Nouveau décor. Delicious and traditional. Not cheap. Make a reservation. 117, rue du Cherche-Midi Paris 75006 01 42 22 81 19 Métro Duroc, Falguière Here is info about it and more. Le Timbre Good ‘terroir’ fares (specialties from various French provinces). 3, rue Sainte Beuve paris 75006 01 45 49 10 40, Métro Vavin, Notre Dame-des-Champs Le Timbre website Seventh Arrondissement La Maison de l’Amérique Latine Near musee Rodin, beyond gorgeous garden setting, traditional but light French food. 217 boulevard Saint-Germain Paris 75007 01 49 54 75 10 Métro Solferino Restaurant Maison de l'Amérique Latine website. A La Petite Chaise The oldest restaurant in Paris and fabulous food for the price 36, rue de Grenelle paris 75007 01 42 22 13 35 Métro Rue du Bac, Sèvres-Babylone A la Petite Chaise website Eigth Arrondissement Le Jardin du Petit-Palais Gorgeous terrace in the gardens of the Petit Palais museum. Sumptuous. The food is secondary to the setting 3 Avenue Winston Churchill Paris 75008 01 53 43 40 00 Métro Champs Elysées Petit Palais website photo credit and review here. Café Jacquemart-André So much beauty... Restaurant of the museum and beautiful terrace. Light lunch, brunch. Children menu that reads straight out a Michelin guide. 158 boulevard Haussmann Paris 75008 Métro Miromesnil, Monceau 01 45 62 11 59 Musée Jacquemart André website Ninth Arrondissement Pipalottes Gourmandes Café bistro and shop. Ancient charm. Gustatory, olfactory and visual experience and you can buy yummy things to bring back. 49 rue de Rochechouart 75009 Paris 01 44 53 04 53 Métro Poissonière Aux Pipalottes Gourmandes website Le Déli-Cieux After shopping at the Printemps (or instead of). Spectacular 360 degree view of paris rooftops. The food is not the stuff dreams are made of, but the setting is. 66 boulevard Haussmann Paris 75009 01 42 82 62 76 Métro Havre Caumartin Printemps restaurant website Café du musée de la Vie Romantique Idyllic garden, green house. Maybe there is a more idyllic setting to eat in Paris but I haven’t found it. (it might only be open in warm months so make sure to check.) 16 Rue Chaptal Paris 75009 Métro Blanche, Saint-Georges, Pigalle 01 55 31 95 67 Café de la Vie Romantique website Le Limonaire Wine Bistro with French musical atmosphere by local performers every night. I have not been yet but it was recommended to me by a Parisian friend 18 cité Bergère Paris 75009 01 45 23 33 33 Métro Grands Boulevards Le Limonaire website Chez Prune Quintessential Parisian café on the Canal Saint Martin. Right next to Antoine et Lilly (lovers of kitch décor will know what I’m talking about). 36 rue Beaurepaire Paris 75010 01 42 41 30 47 Métro Goncourt, Jacques Bonsergent No website but here is a descriptive link. Tenth Arrondissement L’Office Closed Saturday and Sunday (I am amused by this). Reservation recommended. Hip Parisian. 3 Rue Richer 75010 Paris 01 47 70 67 31 Métro Cadet No website but this is helpful. Chez Michel Brittany specialties. On the expensive side but oh so delicious. 10, rue Belzunce Paris 75010 01 44 53 06 20 Métro Gare du Nord Restaurant Chez Michel website La Chambre aux Oiseaux Vintage décor. Cozy tea room feel. Light food, breakfast and brunch. Trendy. 48 rue Bichat 75010 Paris 33 1 40 18 98 49 Métro gare de l’est, colonel Fabien La chambre aux oiseaux website Eleventh Arrondissement Astier Traditional French cuisine. I have not been but a review by David Lebovitz places it way up on my to go list. 44, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud Paris 75011 01 43 57 16 35 Métro République Restaurant Astier website A review by david lebovitz Paul Bert Crowded. Beloved. Went only once many years ago and had an awesome meal. Reviews are still very positive. 18, rue Paul Bert Paris 75011 01 43 72 24 01 Métro Faidherbe, Chaligny Did not find a website but this helps Septime Rustic décor. Sophisticated food. An excellent address a bit far from touristy point of interest. 81 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris 01 43 67 38 29 Métro Charonne, Ledru Rollin Le Septime website Le Perchoir Mostly a bar but has food and panoramic view of Paris 14 rue Crespin du Gast 75011 Paris 01 48 06 18 48 Métro Pere Lachaise Le Perchoir website Le Bistrot du Peintre Art nouveau (1900) décor and really good food 116 Avenue Ledru Rollin 75011 Paris 01 47 00 34 39 Métro Ledru Rollin, Bastille Le Bistro du Peintre website Maison Karrenbauer Old fashion tea house. Nostalgic feel I adore 13 rue de Charonne 75011 Paris Métro Ledru-Rollin This is the patisserie of the restaurant chez paul (next) Chez Paul One of those restaurants I have never experienced but badly want to. I guess I just stop at the bakery and by the time I’m through with it, food is no longer on my mind (that feeling rarely lasts). 13, rue de Charonne Paris 75011 01 47 00 34 57 Métro Ledru-Rollin Restaurant Chez Paul website. La Buvette Décor sans froufrou. All about the wine and some charcuterie but nice Parisian ambiance. 67, rue Saint-Maur Paris 75011 09 83 56 94 11 Métro Saint-Ambroise No website. Here is a review. Le Square Guardette Eclectic décor, the perfect little trendy quartier restaurant. 24, rue Saint Ambroise Paris 75011 01 83 76 04 70 Métro St. Ambroise Le Square Guardette website Twelfth Arrondissement A La Biche au Bois Rooster in wine people: their coq au vin is supposed to be one of the best. 45, Av Ledru Rollin 75012 Paris 01 43 43 34 38 Métro Gare de Lyon, Quai-de-la-Rapée Did not find website but here is a review. Thirteenth Arrondissement L'Oisive Thé A very special place full of charm for crochet and knitting aficionados. 4 Rue Jean Marie Jego 75013 Paris 01 53 80 31 33 L'Oisive Thé website Sixteenth Arrondissement Le Chalet des Iles The setting alone is unforgettable and romantic (says the girl who was in love the last time she went). Lac inférieur du bois de Boulogne Porte de la Muette 75016 Paris 01 42 88 04 69 No easy access (unless you take a taxi) Closest metro access is Rue de la Pompe 20 minutes away, but it’s a gorgeous walk. You can rent a canoe and glide on the lake next. Chalet des Iles website Le Raphaël Restaurant and terrace with view of the arc de triumph. Another view to beat. 17 avenue Kléber Paris 75016 01 53 64 32 00 Métro Kléber Le raphael hotel website Seventeenth Arrondissement Le bloc Café Contemporary look, hip. Not too expensive. 21 rue Brochant 75017 Paris 01 53 11 02 37 Metro Brochant No website but here is a review. Twentieth Arrondissement Chéri-Chérie I can almost guarantee that you will not encounter another tourist there. Unless they read this :) Affordable and delish. 203, Avenue Gambetta 75020 Paris 01 01 83 76 22 73 Métro Saint-Fargeau, Porte des Lilas Chérie Chérie website Le Café Noir Oozes 30s décor charm. Traditional dishes. 15 Rue St Blaise 75020 Paris 01 40 09 75 80 No really close metro but a good place to consider after visiting the Père Lachaise Cemetry. Le Café Noir website Le 20ème art You’ll drool all over the terrace setting and feel as though you’re part of a French movie 46 rue des Vignoles 75020 Paris 01 43 67 22 29 Métro Alexandre Dumas Le 20eme Art website I'm just realizing that I have no addresses for some arrondissements. So just assume that in those areas of Paris 'on ne mange pas'. Or better yet, I welcome your suggestions. Here is a list of sites that offer good tips when you're visiting Paris. I'll update as I find them.
Paris Voyage has a page with links with info on public transportation, Paris métro (the subway) RER (trains to various neighborhoods around Paris), bus, tram and Train system. It tells you how to read a map and where to buy tickets and passes and how to stay safe. Here is another good link for this type of information on how to move in and around Paris. Here is an article on taxis in Paris (hint, there is not such thing as hailing a cab in Paris. You go to cab station throughout the city.) Like eating a La Durée Macaron, minus the plane ride to Paris. I found this raspberry macaron recipe at not so humble pie. No I won't try to make it are you kidding? This is way over my skill level. I leave my macarons up to professionals.
The list is here (sorry it's in French). They don't mention the famous 'chocolat chaud à l'ancienne' at Les Deux Magots but they should. Frankly I don't see the point of going to Les Deux Magots and order anything else. À l'ancienne means old-fashioned. They're not diluting powder into water, this is not starbuck. It's had cooked for a long time and is thick with a balanced flavor you didn't think chocolate was capable of. But it's not too sweet, just bitter enough, complex, decadent but not to the point of indecency. Like velvet on the tongue (chocolate-flavored velvet). image credit here.
Oh wow seriously. This is a 2 bedroom apartment for rent in Paris. With a balcony and flooded with wonderful light. And I love the decor. So whimsical. Hmmm they don't mention an elevator.
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Corine GantzWelcome to my wee blog where I talk about Paris, France and writing. Archives |